Much Ado About Very Little

After a week of lounging about on the beach we thought it was time to take in some local culture. Where better to find it than at the Varkala Cultural Centre where, according to a flyer headed, “This is a truthful information,” we would experience, (quote): “ A DAILY KATHAKALI IS THE REALLY ONE. It is not a CD player programme. This is doing daily in our theatre. Doing like in real temples.” We couldn’t resist such a compellingly penned invitation. However, finding the cultural centre was an art in itself. We could tell you that it’s just a tumble-down tin shack at the end of a dingy, garbage strewn alley – but that wouldn’t help you here. We found it – eventually, but should have run when we saw the empty rows of plastic lawn chairs and the bare electric lightbulb hanging over the concrete stage. But we were stuck. The cast of thousands, (eight actually, including the orchestra and doorman who doubled as the MC), were about to perform the Kathakali, a classical Keralan dance drama that was created during Shakespeare’s time, and we didn’t have the heart to abandon Chuck , (the only other audience member).
Here’s the full cast with part of the orchestra…

And here’s the full orchestra…

And here’s the fish we had for dinner afterwards…

Yes… after watching a couple of heavily made up actors pulling faces at each other for more than an hour, we too found the dead swordfish more exiting. But then, the next day, we continued our cultural enlightenment with a trip to a temple festival and what a difference. There were ten gaily adorned elephants…

Numerous decorated floats… (This one looked like a Hindu Santa's Rudolph)

Dozens of musicians and dancers…

And hordes of happy people…

We had a great time.

Christmas is just around the corner and northerners lucky enough to escape the snow are finally beginning to arrive at the beach. So we are heading back to the little cottage we found on the banks of the Pampa River for a peaceful holiday among the villagers of Champakulam. No turkey or Christmas pud, but we know that we will enjoy ourselves with these kind, generous people of the Keralan backwaters.