A Travellerspoint blog

October 2018

Denmark's Doorways

semi-overcast 16 °C

The southern Danish town of Tonder lies within howitzer range of Germany and has been back and forth over the border so many times in the past that the inhabitants must wonder which way to turn at times. The town was officially bilingual until the end of the second World War when the Germans were given the boot. However, Tonder survives on tourism these days and judging by the car licence plates in the parking lots, the Germans are back in force. The doorways of Tonder have a distinctly Teutonic look...
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...as does the medieval Renaissance church with its richly decorated pulpit carved in 1586 and its amazingly ornate organ...
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Tonder was German throughout World War 1 and some of the Zeppelin airships that bombed British cities were based here. The base and the airships were destroyed by aircraft from a British aircraft carrier in 1918 but the town remained unscathed and there are many shops and houses dating from the 18th century...
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We were expecting to visit the Friday market in Tonder, (as per the guidebook), but discovered that it had closed sometime ago. However, there were plenty of shops in the cobbled streets for those with deep pockets. This nice little chair had been reduced to a paltry five thousand six hundred and fifty Canadian dollars. (but that could be for a pair)...
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The Danes love their bakeries, and so do we, but it's no good asking for Danish pastries here in the oldest bakery in Tonder – these are all Danish pastries...
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And after lunch we headed to the beach to walk off some calories...
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Yes - those are cars and people at the other end of the beach but you may need binoculars to see them.
This is Romo; a small island in the Wadden Sea which can be reached by a lengthy causeway. It has miles of the widest beaches we have ever seen and, despite the time of year and the relatively murky weather, there were actually hundreds of German holidaymakers on the sands. There were also signs warning us not to use binoculars...
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At first we thought that was because we might be able to see the island's nudist colony from the top of the dyke, but then we discovered that a large area is a military zone and they didn't want us taking too close a look at their war games. We did manage to get a shot of this enormous tank in the distance...
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But, if you were hoping, we didn't see anything of any size worth photographing on the nudist beach.

Our tour of rural Denmark continues with almost unending vistas of arable land being grazed by cattle, sheep and pigs, and we are enjoying the bounty of pork, bacon, butter and cheese for which Denmark is renowned.
The answer to Thursday's blog question is that the boxes are Indian brick moulds. We have no idea why they are so popular in Denmark. Were they imported to make bricks, or did someone pick them up cheap in Delhi in the hope that the Danes would find a use for them? Answers on a postcard please ... Oh - never mind. We probably can't afford to buy you lunch in Denmark!

Posted by Hawkson 10:30 Archived in Denmark Comments (6)

History, Bloody History

overcast 14 °C

The Danes may be best known for their modern designs, clean living and respect for the environment, but it is obvious that they still cherish their rather murkier past when they were considered the pirates of the north. However, people have lived on the fertile coastal plains of Jutland since the end of the last ice-age about 10,000 years ago, so there is a lot of history to cherish – and we have just scraped the surface. First stop: Aarhus, Denmark's second largest city, to visit Grauballe Man...
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This iron age man died 300 years before Christ and his perfectly preserved body was uncovered by Danish peat diggers in 1952. The discovery was a worldwide sensation because the corpse is completely intact with skin, hair, teeth and nails. A gaping wound in his neck suggests he was either murdered or sacrificed, (although the end result is pretty much the same).

Near Aarhus is the ancient fishing village of Ebeltoft where we jumped forward a couple of millenia to stroll along the cobbled streets and survey houses built in the 16th and 17th centuries...
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This was Ebeltoft's elegant town hall in the 1600s...
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The dungeon under the Town Hall was a prison where, in 1686, a number of women were tortured until they confessed to being witches or died of their wounds. Another form of torture in the middle-ages was to be press-ganged into the navy, although the seamen who sailed this ship may have been professionals...
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This is the Fregatte Jylland, a steam assisted three-master that is one of the biggest wooden ships ever built. She was launched in 1860 and on 9th May 1864 she engaged in the Battle of Heligoland against the Austro-Prussian Empire. The battle resulted in something of a draw, with many killed and wounded on both sides, but the Jylland survived and today is a very interesting living museum in Ebelstoft harbour. Here are some gunners loading the cannons...
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Denmark is very rural with only one city of any size, so we will be spending our time in small communities and seeking out roads less travelled. To start our road trip we have strayed off the beaten track entirely and are staying in a converted schoolhouse on a duck farm in southern Denmark. Nearby is Denmark's first recorded city, Ribe. The cathedral was begun in 1110 and finished in 1134 and, despite the fact that parts of it have fallen down and been rebuilt several times, it is still an impressive sight. However, we have no idea what the locals were thinking when they commissioned an avant-garde artist, Carl-Henning Pedersen, to repaint the medieval murals that had been removed from the apse walls...
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Today, Ribe is a historic town close to the German border and by lunchtime the streets and numerous restaurants were packed with visitors despite the weather. Luckily we got some photos before the crowds arrived...
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Now for a blog question...
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We have seen dozens of these small wooden boxes, (approximately 8 inches by 4 inches), for sale in antique shops in Ribe and other towns and assumed them to be traditional Viking artifacts. But do you know what they really are?
First prize is a lunch for one in Ebeltoft, (airfare and coffee not included).
P.S. Only one lunch because we thought Norway was expensive until we got to Denmark!

It is October 4th so, 'Happy Kannelbullen Day' to our friends in Sweden.

Posted by Hawkson 11:11 Archived in Denmark Comments (14)

Farewell to Sweden

semi-overcast 13 °C

Gothenburg is a relatively modern city in the south of Sweden that is the home of both Volvo and Saab and there are museums featuring these iconic Swedish brands. There is also a waterfront maritime museum showcasing a number of old vessels in various states of repair...
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The city's waterfront is crowded with offices, warehouses and massive shopping malls, so parking space is at a premium. The innovative Swedes have solved the problem with a huge floating multi-storey car park...
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Unlike Stockholm, Gothenburg didn't appear to have a great deal to offer us as tourists until we visited the Haga – a street of touristy shops and cafes dating from the late 1800s. We found little of interest until we stumbled across a cafe serving the world's biggest cinnamon buns, kanelbullens, a pefect substitute for a birthday cake for a person of a certain age...
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Cinnamon buns are an almost daily feature of Swedish life, but the 4th of October is their special day. This day celebrates Sweden's home baking tradition by highlighting a traditional and much-loved pastry and, because, the autumn harvest is high season for baking, it is an ideal time for this annual event. Sadly we will miss the actual day, but the bakeries and cafes were already stocking up so we pigged out. We could also have pigged out in Gothenburg in what is surely the world's biggest sweet shop...
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Sweden has become a haven for refugees in recent years and it is apparent that there are tensions between the Swedes and the newcomers. All but one of our taxi drivers have been from Africa or Bangladesh and we have eaten in Ethiopian, Chinese and Indian restaurants. We have, of course, eaten the traditional food of Sweden – meatballs and mashed potatoes...rather plain, boring, and not at all impressive or photogenic. So, here is photo of the changing of the guard ceremony at the royal palace in Stockholm...ditto!
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Sweden is the second country on this trip where cash is a thing of the past. Almost all shops and restaurants have signs like this...
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We've seen panhandlers on the streets in Sweden and wondered how they survived. Then our Canadian friend, Miranda, met up with us in Stockholm and explained that panhandlers have apps on their cellphones that enable them to receive electronic transfers from generous donors...
Welcome to the new world.
Now we have travelled south to Denmark aboard an impressive car ferry that could be mistaken for a cruise liner. It has numerous restaurants, bars, and a casino. There is live entertainment and bingo and there is even a tropical lounge. Welcome to the new world...
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There is nothing tropical about the weather here in Aarhus on the east coast of Jutland, but the view of the marina from our hotel window makes us think of warmer days...
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And now, thanks to Anne-Sofie at the Aarhus office of Europcar, our Danish adventure by car begins. No Swedish meatballs here, just a delicious dinner of local hake...
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Goodbye Sweden - Hello Denmark.

Posted by Hawkson 11:59 Archived in Denmark Comments (12)

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